[Kenya] The Safari Experience

Starting the Journey
The tour started next day. I set my alarm clock at 6 and left for the city around 6:30am. When I got to the agency office, other tourists were already there in the van because they were picked up at their hotels (a service which was in included in the plan but I didn’t get because Brian’s house was “too far”. I should of negotiated that price back..). The van was a 9-seater. The driver, the cook, and 7 participants. Later on I asked others how much they paid for their package, and found out that some of them paid 340USD, and some the initial 420USD. I felt bad telling them that they got ripped over 100USD (of course I waited to tell them until a later day).

Safari: an amazing experience
It was about a 5 hour drive out to Masai Mara. Which really wasn’t a pain because we spent most of the time talking and getting to know each other. I’ll talk about the people later, but looking back I think I was fortunate with the group I was put in. After getting to Masai Mara, we first stopped by our tents and had a cup of coffee. My initial skepticism towards this “tent” was completely blown away when I first saw the place we were staying. The tent, the dining area, shower, bathroom, bed, workers. Everything was great. It’s hard to describe how good a “tent” was, but I would definitely recommend the place to anyone who ever goes to Kenya and Masai Mara.

After settling in and having a cup of coffee (we had a cup, or more like cups, of coffee numerous times throughout the tour), we took off for our first drive in the safari at around 4pm. The entrance to Masai Mara park was literally right in front of our tents, which made it scary the first night while sleeping (especially when we there were security guards with rifles protecting our tents). So we entered, and that was my first view of Masai Mara and the vast African safari.

The van was one of those that you can stick your head out. Usually tourists only use it when they actually see an animal and want to take the best picture, besides that they’re in their seats enjoying the view through the side window. Not our van. (Despite not seeing anything for the first hour,) we were probably standing up for about 2 hours straights, like kids not wanting to keep still in their seats. I remember seeing zebras first, and then some of the Safari’s “Big Five” such as lions, elephants, and giraffes. Because the migration season is in July and August, we weren’t able to witness much chasing or killing in action, but we were able to see lions enjoying their meal.

The Camp
Again, the camp was great. I don’t know how else to describe it, so…bullet point time.
• Food was great, and our cook, Jacob, was the kindest guy.
• Tent was great, with a nice shower (by nice, I simply mean that there is warm water), and mosquito nets.
• Constant “coffee breaks”. We had coffee breaks between coffee breaks. The Kenyan coffee was one of the best I had in my life, and I’m seriously considering buying a small instant one back home..
• Fireplace. We didn’t know we can use it until the last night, but we enjoyed s’mores (well, the closest to s’mores we got to).
• The sunrise. No words can describe looking at the sun rise in the middle of the desert.
• The security. There were local Masai tribes with rifles who helped us stay safe from night attacks by animals.

Who invented bullet points? I will praise him forever and list him under my “people I respect” list along with Egyptians (inventor of coffee), Indians (inventor of curry), and Sadashi (inventor and the living proof of beauty). I would definitely Wikipedia it the next time I get internet.

Kenyan Pancakes
Oh, the breakfast. Definitely one of the best meals I had throughout ATW.5. Though the fact that half of my meals being airplane and train food may be part of the reason why..
Felt like the food was somewhere between American and Kenyan. So I’m not saying that I had the best Kenyan meal (because it’s not), but the food was so good that I probably gained back the weight that I lost in India (from walking forever in the heat).
All of us went back for seconds, some of us thirds. There were pancakes, toasts, eggs, and sausages like western breakfasts, but there were also really good beans and other local dishes that just made the meal feel more exotic and exceptional.

The Big 5
So the “Big 5” animals in the safari consists of the following:
- Lions
- Elephants
- Giraffes
- Rhinos (I think)
- Buffalos (I think)

Fortunately we got to see all of the Big 5, which sometimes doesn’t happen in the lower seasons. We also saw many others such as monkeys, foxes, zebras, deers, donkeys, hippos, and crocodiles.

Tanzania
On the second day of the safari, we stopped for lunch by a river that separated Kenya and Tanzania. We were able to enter the Tanzanian boarder (for a couple steps) and took some photos. So technically, my goal to enter Tanzania has been accomplished (disregarding the climb up Mt. Kilimanjaro)..

First Beer in Kenya
Surprising, the first beer I had in Kenya was in the safari. More surprisingly, I exchanged cheers with the Masai tribe leader’s son. I was inviting into their home when our group visited their village. Well, to be accurate, I didn’t actively have the beer. First of all, I’m not a huge fan of beer. At all. Second, water and food in the safari is often times not very safe when you’re body isn’t used to it. Third, the beer had dirt in it and looked more like lake water than beer.

What went through my head at the time:
• It’s rude to say no to the offering, and I wasn’t going to risk offending them when there’s only one of me, and 4 of them. In their home ground (house). In a room with no lights. When lion heads are hanged on the wall for decoration. When they all have knives on their waist (I didn’t have my katana at the time)
• There wasn’t another person with me who would be pressured to drink it along with me. So if anything happens, it’ll only happen to me.
• Knowing my own personality, I knew that I refuse and I’d end up drinking it in the end. So, I drank it.

Result: tasted like beer and dirt juice.

Another reason for me to not enjoy beer in the future. Oh well.

Jacob
All these great experiences at the camp (the food, security, and such) makes me question myself once again. Will I be able to experience this without the money paid? I don’t necessarily mean the food served, or the coffee offered, but the kindness of the cooks, and the smile of local security guards. Will it still be there if I wasn’t a member of the tour?

During one of the coffee breaks, I was in the dining area with other members. Some of them went back to their tents to take a shower or for a short nap, and after a while it was just me in the dining room, which was good because I had magazines I wanted to read (and with coffee I was living the good life). So I was in Masai Mara safari, in Kenya, reading “The Economist” with coffee in my left hand. But right after, I noticed Jacob and other cooks preparing for dinner. I collected everyone’s coffee mugs and spoons and brought took it over to the kitchen and asked to let me help prepare the meal. Jacob, with his trademark smile, said no. No? Why? I asked to at least let me wash the mugs. Another “No”. Seeing no hope, I sat back down.

I thought about and came with 2 hypothesis of why Jacob said no.
1. Pride as a cook and not wanting “customers” help him in the kitchen.
2. A barrier that prevents us to stand at the same level
I hope it's the former. I hope it’s because of his pride as a cook. I hope it’s because it says “do not let tourists reading ‘The Economist’ help in the kitchen in the employment contract and manual. I hope it’s because he would get in trouble by the company if he was caught letting me help. I hope it’s not because of any cultural or historical barrier.

Just imagine. 4 or 5 Kenyan workers preparing the meal for tourists (you), and you’re in the dining next door reading a magazine with a cup of coffee.

Is that right?
It’s disgusting.

“Well you paid for it”
No, that's missing the point. Money does not justify.
This is exactly why I would prefer to not use tours as much as possible in the future.


Vegetarian
Another interesting perception I gained being both in India and Kenya, vegetarianism. I’d like to know the trend and the statistics of number of vegetarians around the world (which I can’t right now without internet). We all heard of people becoming a vegetarian due to some kind of experience, and many times it happens when it is least expected. I’m not trying to say I’m thinking about becoming a vegetarian (at least not yet), but I do have a new sensibility. Before elaborating, I’d like to tell myself: “You’re only at your second stop, quit looking for conclusions”. Alright, now..

Obviously, in India a great majority of people are vegetarians. I also refused to eat chickens and beefs when asked on planes and trains while I was in India, which really wasn’t a problem for me (at least for 8 days). And now, Kenya. People eat whatever meat that's available (goats and sheep, no questions asked) and the Masai tribe still hunt and eat animals on a daily basis. I think I’ve seen close to both extremes. I was never a huge meat eating anyways, and somehow I feel that it wouldn’t be hard for me to stop eating it. As I write this I’m more and more becoming a (mental) vegetarian..

Vegetarian (5 minutes later…)
I still have this vague and gray mindset of officially becoming a vegetarian, but I think I’ve been able to clarify some points.
• Not a religious motive. That's means that I’m not a complete vegetarian (as in I won’t face punishments or other consequences if I do eat it). So when I feel that I should eat it in terms of respect and social manners, I will (like when I’m treated to dinner or its been served by someone).
• Group meals. Usually when eating in a group, we often order big plates and then share it to enjoy variety of dishes. When there is a vegetarian person, it probably causes difficulties and more careful considerations for others when ordering. Obviously I wouldn’t want that (at some point, I won’t be invited to eat out), so at those times I will eat what is ordered as a group.

So technically, I’m not a vegetarian. Considering factors above, I don’t think I can ever be in the states or in Japan (where walking into a vegetarian person is still a rare occasion). But, I have some grounds as a vegetarian, and I probably will order more often from the vegetarian section of the menu.

Safari: in conclusion (+ the group)
So the safari was awesome and was definitely worth the (heavily bargained) price. I realized that my satisfaction comes not only from the accommodation and tours in the safari, but equally due to the people that I was able to meet and the time spent together. It was remarkable how well the group got along and got to know each other during the 3 days. The diversity was also an attraction of our group, which made it easier for us to give nicknames and uniquely characterize each person. So here, I’ll introduce our group.
• The Mama: Wow...full of energy and sarcasm. I wouldn’t guess her to be 43 if I only heard of her through another person. Not scared to yell or scream at the local villagers or cooks. “Are you really volunteering at an orphanage?”, was the image I had of her throughout the trip. Always with a bag of munchies, she’s our Big Mama.
• The Gay: Where to start with this guy. Non-stop jokes, stories, and gayness. He left a gay footstep in all of us. Never will I forget this guy, mainly because I’ve never met anyone like him. He’s a very successful (as he says) tour operator/entrepreneur back in his home in Mexico. Really a glue of our group.
• The Fresh Air Inspector: An ozzie whose been away from his homeland travelling the past 3 years. A nice guy head to toe. He got this nickname because he’s 25 and not employed. Not like he can’t get a job (has a degree in business), but he’s been too much into travelling. I see him and see freedom. Really respect what he’s seen and his down-to-earth perspective of life. A big-hearted man who saves the world everyday by making sure the air is clean (that's a sarcasm for not having a real job btw).
• The Columbian: Not really a Columbian, but we just call her that because she only wears Columbia University shirts. Studies law there in the graduates program (wow). If I knew her longer I would feel more comfortable calling her a bitch , but I’ll refrain from that because it’ll just offend her. But she is one of those bitchy (not a bitch, but bitchy), speak-my-mind type of girl, but really nice when she’s on your good side. She even made s’mores for the group at the last night and nearly cried when the tour was over and we were separating.
• The Dawson: The first one to get a nickname. The only reason was because the Columbian decided that he looks like the guy from Dawson Creek (the show?). 23 years old and a fellow ozzie of the FAI (fresh air inspector). A huge, buff guy is an ex-rugby player whose more like a over-sized puppy now. Always nice and eased tensions between Big Mama, the Gay, and the Columbian.
• The Doctor: Along with Big Mama and the Columbian, another volunteering member of the orphanage. The Scottish doctor finished her education in Scotland and came to Kenya to gain work experience. Quiet but passionate. Really respect her efforts and she was obviously one of the mature ones in the group.
• The Economist: Well that's me.. I got this because I was reading the “The Economist” when everyone else was attached to the giraffes in the safari. I’d like to take this opportunity to apologize to all Asians for once again earning us an image of nerdy and serious people. Asians, please, look at the giraffes and put down “The Economist” when you’re in a safari.

Back in Nairobi
After separating with the group, I was back in the busy city (other members were dropped off at their hotel). I called Brian and told him that I was back, and to ask to meet up like we have planned couple days before. Turns out he’s “occupied” with a meeting so he couldn’t come. “But you don’t work” is what ran through my head, but I had no choice but to say alright and that I’d wait. My guess is that his “meeting” is with one of his girlfriends. Since I had time, I went to the bus station and checked the schedule for the bus to Mombasa. Turns out that there is an over-night bus to Mombasa that leaves at 10:45pm (the exact one that is not recommended to tourists), so I took it. Notifying Brian that he can continue on with his “meeting”, I now had about 4 hours to kill before the bus left.
For the first 2 hours I let myself get lost in the city of Nairobi, which lasted until it became pitch black outside around 7pm. Honestly, I almost shiet my pants. One of the most scariest experience I’ve had during this trip. In terms of just walking, it was the scariest by far. I felt like I was in a movie scene. Not happy and cheerful movies, but movies like “City of God” and other slum area setting movies. Streetlights don’t exist in 99% of streets, and by 7pm there are no more tourists walking outside, no stores are open, and everyone is looking at you. I went into one the very few restaurants opened and waited there for 2 hours.